💬 Ask This Old House (2002)

Ask This Old House (2002)

Tom Silva, Richard Trethewey, Roger Cook and host Kevin O'Connor, the experts of Ask This Old House, travel the country making house calls in order to answer homeowner questions and everyday home improvement projects.
Production: This Old House Productions, GBH, WETA

Release date: 12 Oct 2002

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Ask This Old House (2002)
Tom Silva, Richard Trethewey, Roger Cook and host Kevin O'Connor, the experts of Ask This Old House, travel the country making house calls in order to answer homeowner questions and everyday home improvement projects. Production: This Old House Productions, GBH, WETA Release date: 12 Oct 2002
List of sound clips on this page:

All right. Chris: That's it. {\an1}Jenn: Let's scoot it this way so we could position it to the hole. {\an1}So, if you want to push and I'll pull...
Alright, so now we want to make sure that. {\an1}these are projecting out a little bit higher than the level, and then level that out across. Greg: Okay. Nathan: So I'll bring this up. {\an1}close, and then you put the level on.
Alright. So, what we've done here. is we've taped three pieces together, {\an1}two fronts and one template. {\an1}What we're going to do is we're going to cut {\an1}the hand slot right here at the top of each drawer. {\an1}But we're going to cut both drawers at the same time.
And also in here. A little there. Time to roll. {\an1}Want to give it a try? {\an1}Kevin: Nah, you got it. You're good. [ Laughs ] Never get in the way of a good painter.
And we can see that that tab is still in place. {\an5}Kevin: Right. Heath: So all we have to do is break that. {\an5}Kevin: So, this is a tab that's actually designed to be broken, right, so this isn't a hack? {\an5}Heath: No, that's meant to come out, to separate the two halves. So, now, you can see it's separate. {\an1}We'll simply put it back in. Kevin: Alright.
Beauty. {\an1}I'm gonna drill a hole up into the attic {\an1}to allow the flexible gas line to be run down.
Drop that on there. Go ahead.
I'm cutting the grain of the wood. {\an1}so that when I chisel out these little pieces, {\an1}I don't want this part to splinter off.
Jenn: Alright, so these are the beams. {\an1}that are going to run across the width of the deck. {\an1}What do we need to do to get this prepped for install? {\an1}Luke: We're going to want about every 16 inches to lay out {\an1}where our rafter clips33 are going to go. Jenn: So much easier to install them. {\an1}while these are down here and we can line {\an1}everything up perfectly with these clamped together. {\an1}Luke: So next we'll attach the PVC beam onto the beam itself. {\an1}So...
Jenn: You think that's good? {\an1}Chris: That looks good. {\an1}Jenn: To replace the hole left by the big viburnum, {\an1}we'll dig up the smaller one and put it in its place. {\an1}All right. I think we got it. Chris: Yep. Jenn: So... let's lift this up, Chris. {\an7}Gonna get to the bottom. {\an8}I'm gonna grab this part of the basket.
Kevin: Pressing it right into the crack. Mauro: Get it filled in really well. And from the bottom.
Kevin: There you go. Mauro: That's looking pretty good. Kevin: May I? Mauro: Sure. Kevin: Oh, yeah. Mauro: Nice. {\an1}Kevin: Yeah. Absolutely. Mauro: All right. Let's paint. {\an1}Start with this brush... 2 1/2, angled cut. {\an1}Do a little cut in here at the bottom.
Kevin: We're good. Tom: All right. {\an1}So now that's not moving. Ready to run it through. [ Buzzing ]
Let's get it caught on the top of the tile. Jordan: There we go. Richard: Alright. {\an1}I'll hold it in place. You get the screws, please.
Like it. {\an1}Let's do the other one.
Nathan: To replicate your pin top, {\an1}I'm gonna add a 45 degree cut all the way around the top of the post.
Next, we'll fill any old nail holes. {\an1}with an exterior grade wood filler {\an1}mixed with the sanding dust from the mahogany.
Now, with that root cut on both sides, what I want to do is cut the asphalt. That way, we can dig that root out.
Okay, so now you had this pegboard standing up. {\an1}with some brackets on it. {\an1}I think if we take the pegboard and hang it horizontally, like this, {\an1}you'll be able to hang a lot more things on it. {\an1}Stefani: Sounds great. Tom: Okay. {\an1}I think that's a good height, just about four feet off the floor. {\an1}Let's get a screw in there.
Okay. Good. {\an1}Alright, so there's a frame. Tim: Looks good. {\an5}Tom: Now, what we'll do is we'll give it a quick sand {\an1}and why don't we stain it before we put the glass on? Tim: Sounds good.
Okay. Now let's go this way, {\an1}then we'll position it in the hole? Chris: Okay. Jenn: Awesome. All right. Let's stand this guy up.
Okay. So now I'm going to take the pieces. {\an7}and I'm going to slide them down to get our length. {\an7}I'm going to flip it over. {\an7}I'm going to take my tape and I'm going to put it {\an7}on the measurement to the long {\an7}because that's the outside of our box. {\an7}I'm going to mark it on here, which is 38 and 7/8, {\an7}and our miter will go that way. {\an7}Make sure she's tight against the back.
Perfect. {\an1}All right, just hold it down onto the table {\an1}and push it tight to the board.
Richard: Alright, let's pop the heater on. Chris: Awesome.
Richard: Here we go. {\an1}You want a 14 inch clearance. Perfect.
This gate latch will hold the table up. and out of the way when you don't to use it.
Tom: That's water base? Tim: Water base. {\an5}Tom: Now, is that just a stain or is it a finish also? {\an1}Tim: It's just a stain. Tom: Yeah.
Tom: To hold the legs together, we're gonna use a mortise and tenon joint so you don't see any mechanical fastening.
Wow. That looks pretty good, Chris. Chris: All right.
[ Creaking ] [Straining] Nice and easy. Stretch it out. {\an1}Yeah. See? Now you... If you can get under there. Ben: Alright. Tom: Yeah. Alright. {\an1}Let me reposition down here. {\an1}I just don't want to get under that glass either, so... Come on.
{\an1}A little bit here at the bottom. Kevin: So the edges little bit, {\an1}a couple trowel marks in the middle, {\an1}but not too much work. Mauro: Not a lot. {\an1}I think that looks good. {\an1}Tack cloth. Let's clean up some of this dust off.
{\an1}After the bottom piece is on, {\an1}we're gonna run two pieces up each side. {\an1}You didn't have those before, but it's a nice finishing look. Now, you didn't have any underlayment. {\an1}under that roof before, and it's really good to put it there. {\an1}Now, this is basically a separation {\an1}from the face of the sheathing to the underside of the shingle. {\an1}[ Staple gun clicking ]
{\an1}All right, now I have the rough idea of the pieces that I need. {\an1}I need two pieces up top. These are going to be similar. {\an1}One long piece down below. {\an1}I'm gonna cut each piece, {\an1}just a little bit longer than I need. {\an1}I'll fine tune them later.
{\an1}All right, now that all the connections have been made {\an1}and the system has been tested, it's time to bury the wires. {\an1}So what we're going to do is I'm going to use {\an1}a flat shovel like this and I'm going to dig a little channel. {\an1}We want to get down about four to six inches, {\an1}six is a little better if we can. And we're just going to open this up.
{\an1}All right, so my glass groove is going to be 3 1/2 inches, {\an1}and I'm going to set the blade to 1/4 inch high.
{\an1}All right. That should be all of the slats that we need {\an1}with a couple of extra pieces. {\an1}Now we're ready to rip down the boards for the legs. {\an1}Those are gonna be wider. I'm gonna rip them in two passes. {\an1}Gonna rip once to take the bevel off of one side, adjust the fence, {\an1}and rip it again to take the bevel off the other side.
{\an1}Alright, Chris, just feed it down, please, the flex. Thank you. {\an1}With a tubing cutter, we can cut the flexible gas line to length, strip away the plastic outer coating, {\an1}and make up our connection.
{\an1}Alright, now that I have the prop stick underneath, {\an1}I'm gonna put a few screws in the joist to hold it in place until we get the hanger in. [ Whirring ]
{\an1}Alright, so, there are bolt caps, bolt cap covers, and here's our nut and bolt right here. {\an1}This is generally 7/16, open end dimension. {\an1}And I'm going to loosen that.
{\an1}Alright, that's in there. {\an1}Now, attach this piece back.
{\an1}Alright, the primer is dry. {\an1}Let's do a light sand, clean up, {\an1}and then we'll be ready for a top coating.
{\an1}Alright, we just want to plumb this up. How's that look? {\an1}Kaitlin: It looks great. Nathan: Alright.
{\an1}Alright, with a router and a templating bit, {\an1}this bearing right here is going to follow our template. {\an1}We're going to fine tune that. {\an1}We'll have to probably do it in about two or three passes.
{\an1}And I set the table saw up for 4 inches. I'm going to run all this 1x6 through. {\an1}and make it a little bit thinner {\an1}because I don't need all that depth for the flag case. {\an1}But the base I'm going to leave full thickness.
{\an1}Elayne: Oh, looks perfect. Tom: Okay. That's it right there. {\an1}Alright, now I'll chisel the next one down.
{\an1}Finally, we connect the hot and cold supply lines from the basement back up to the shower.
{\an1}Fred: So I've got all the fish in the tank. {\an1}They're ready to be held while we clean the pond. {\an1}I'm going to add an aerator to keep some oxygen going {\an1}so they can still breathe while we're doing the cleanup. {\an8}♪♪
{\an1}I don't want any of these pipes banging around {\an1}when the water's running, so I'm gonna add some blocking between the studs and then secure the pipes to that.
{\an1}I marked the location and pre drilled the holes {\an1}for the back of the sled.
{\an1}I want the epoxy to bond really well with the mortar, {\an1}so I'm gonna try and clean out all the fine dust particles. I like epoxy in this application. {\an1}because it's really good at bonding different materials. We have the steel going to masonry, {\an1}and also it's got a really good tensile strength on it.
{\an1}Jordan: Okay, here comes. Richard: Thank you. Hold on. Okay, now push that all the way in. Jordan: Okay. Richard: Alright. {\an1}We're gonna have to solder pretty close to this wood. {\an1}I want to soak it really well.
{\an1}Kaitlin: A little bit closer to the house. Perfect.
{\an1}Kevin: And that's when you know if you got the stud or not. Nathan: Yeah, yeah. Kevin: That's going to pop. right through, if you miss the stud. {\an1}Now we have our live bolts, washer on top. Kevin: So, let me see what you got there. I mean, that's a beefy bolt right there, right? {\an1}I mean, this is going to be holding a lot of weight, so. {\an1}They give you the right ones, use them. {\an1}Nathan: Yeah. And you need to pay attention, {\an1}when you're buying your mounts,...
{\an1}Kevin: On "Ask This Old House", our experts travel across the country to answer questions about your house.
{\an1}Lay that in place, and I put the three pieces together. {\an1}I take a second piece of inlay and I put it on top, {\an1}marking the thickness of the inlay, {\an1}then I cut that section out with the saw. I'm using blue tape to hold all the pieces together. so I can cut them.
{\an1}Luke: This is one that's kind of freestanding all by itself. {\an1}So what we actually did before we put the decking down {\an1}is we put support blocks underneath in place where this is going to be going. {\an1}So we'll put this right where it is so we're square with the other three posts, {\an1}and we'll put some lag bolts into the deck frame. {\an1}[ Screw gun whirring ]
{\an1}Man: Push it back in a touch. {\an1}We got to be on the bed, right?
{\an1}Mauro: Alright, Ashley, let me give you a hint. Ashley: Okay. Mauro: Instead of going forward, go backwards with this sharp edge here. Ashley: Okay. Oh, got it.
{\an1}Nathan: Now that we have our post and it's plumb, {\an1}we can lay out for our top and our bottom rail. {\an1}The easiest way to find that angle is just hold the two pieces together, {\an1}set it on top of the nose of each tread, {\an1}and then we're just gonna strike a line on the bottom, on the top. {\an1}Bring that over to the saw. {\an1}Whatever angle this is, {\an1}our balusters are gonna be cut at the same angle. {\an1}You want to go make some cuts? Kaitlin: Yeah, I do. Nathan:...
{\an1}Now I'm going to set up for the rabbit that the plywood is going to sit inside. Off my rip fence, {\an1}I'm going to set it 1/2 inch at the back side of the blade, and I'm going to set the height of my blade {\an1}at 1/4 inch off the top.
{\an1}Now I'm ready to cut my glass for the front {\an1}and my plywood for the back. {\an1}It's actually really easy to get these measurements. I just measured from the 90 degree point. {\an1}down to the sides 16 inches. Do a diagonal cut, have my piece for the back. Now we're going to cut the glass. {\an1}I'm gonna undersize it just a little bit more than the plywood {\an1}because it's going to be hidden on all three sides.
{\an1}Now that the piece is cut, I insert it into the opening and nail it off.
{\an1}Now, we added two hinges to the door and we want all the hinges to match, {\an1}so we're gonna replace your existing hinges with two new ones. {\an1}Your old hinge is much thicker than the new hinge. Elayne: Oh, right. Tom: So what we need to do. {\an1}is put a filler in behind it to bring it flush. This is just a scrap piece of cardboard.
{\an1}Now, when I take this strip, I turn it up the way it should go on the roof, {\an1}bring it down to the drip edge. {\an1}I want to bring it out about 1/4 inch, {\an1}but see where I've placed the sticky strip? Jace: Yeah. {\an1}Tom: Way at the bottom edge of the next shingle that's going on... Where it should be. Jace: Right. Tom: Okay.
{\an1}Oh, look at that. Nice. {\an1}Pulled that right in nice. And we'll also put some screws in it.
{\an1}Oh, there's all kinds of good stuff in here. {\an1}Oh, wait till you see what I'm gonna find in here. Kevin: The ghost of Christmas past. Richard: Yes. {\an1}Kevin: Or I should say, the turkey leg of Christmas past.
{\an1}Okay, good. Now grab a screw. Camilla: Okay.
{\an1}Okay, now I just break them off, get them out of my way.
{\an1}Okay, so, now that I've mortised for the hinges on the door, {\an1}the next thing I want to do {\an1}is I want to install the hinges on the door.
{\an1}Okay. So now that we have a flat surface, {\an1}we can flip this over and flatten our board and bring it down to the thickness that we want. [ Buzzing ]
{\an1}Richard: Then we can mount the bracket and attach the heater. You got it? Chris: Yep. We're good.
{\an1}Roger: I'm just gonna cover the concrete {\an1}with some of the stones that are on site.
{\an1}So here's our cover plate. {\an1}It has a diverter dial down here {\an1}that picks between tub spout and showerhead, {\an1}and on the back, looks, there's a nice gasket. {\an1}You don't have to put caulking. We stick it on here. {\an1}Line up the diverter. Okay. {\an1}There's a nice cover cap right here. {\an1}And we hold it with two screws. Okay.
{\an1}So now we're ready to fasten our short pieces to the long pieces. {\an1}What we want to do first is pre drill some holes here for the screws. Now push that in a little bit higher. {\an1}There you go. Perfect. So 3/4 in, 3/4 down.
{\an1}So one detail that I'd like to add to my flag case {\an1}is just to ease the edges a little bit with a chamfer bit. {\an1}I love the subtle look of it.
{\an1}So the tape is going to hold all of the pieces {\an1}in the correct orientation so we can glue that up. Kevin: Yeah.
{\an1}So to find out what we need to notch out of our 4x4, {\an1}all I did was project the upper post out with this 2x4. {\an1}I'll plumb this down... {\an1}...make a mark on the inside, {\an1}then we can measure off of this stringer. {\an1}I need to notch an inch and a quarter on this side. {\an1}Let's go check the other side, see what we've got to do there. {\an1}Kaitlin: Sounds good. {\an1}Nathan: So this one is gonna be a little bit more... {\an1}about an inch and five eighths that...
{\an1}That looks good there. Pretty good there. {\an1}So, now what I need to do is put a shim in back {\an1}so I can screw into the stud. {\an1}Alright. The back is in place.
{\an1}Then I'm going to use a laminate scoring knife {\an1}to do a relief there. {\an1}then I take this away. {\an1}I'll use a circular saw to get close to that line, {\an1}I don't want to cut right on it. {\an1}I could be an eighth, a quarter inch away from their.
{\an1}Today, we'll show you how to fix scratches on wood furniture. {\an1}Nathan: Now we're going to introduce a softer wax. {\an1}Kevin: Then on our special backyard reno series, {\an1}we'll install a swimming pool that's gaining in popularity... {\an1}a shipping container pool. {\an1}Joel: So this pool weighs roughly 7,500 pounds. Jenn: Wow. {\an1}Kevin: And we'll repair and re secure a sagging fence gate. All that on "Ask This Old House.".
{\an1}Tom: Stand back this way a little bit to line yourself up. There you go. If you want, you can do the low ones, {\an1}and I'll do the high that. How's that? Camilla: Okay.
{\an1}We'll repeat this process for all four sides. Nice. [ Mallet thuds ] [ Drill whirs ]
{\an1}With the back located in the correct position, I clamp it and then screw it in place.
{\an1}You chose a rafter tail with a clipped corner. {\an1}Jenn: A little bit more modern. Luke: It really does. Yeah. {\an1}It keeps the lines real nice and clean. {\an8}♪♪
{\an7}Okay. So that's our two long pieces. {\an1}And now we'll cut the two shorter pieces for the sides.
{\an8}♪♪ {\an1}We do it the same way. [ Indistinct ] {\an8}♪♪
{\an8}And I'm going to just tap it easy. {\an8}Get it started.
{\an8}Good? Mark: Great. {\an8}♪♪ {\an8}Jenn: Sweet! Mark: One more. {\an8}♪♪
{\an8}Okay. Now I can remove the sash. {\an8}Paula: I'll grab that from you. {\an8}Tom: Okay. Paula: Thank you. {\an7}Tom: Now what I want to do is remove this door right here {\an7}so I can get to the weights.
{\an8}Okay. So now we got to start putting clamps on it. {\an8}So now we have our clamps alternated {\an7}so when we tighten it, it will go in parallel.

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