Big Clive Edit

A complete copy of the datasheet example schematic of the.

A DI ADA for reminding me that these things exist because sadly I've come across these in the past. They've been around a very, very long time. It's obviously a lucrative industry making.

A milliamp hour times say 3.6 volts for the lithium cell inside.

A Phillips bit in a screwdriver sent me by Phillip. That's nice.

Actually bridge one of the greener yet yellows down to the negative rail and that basically enables it because up to that point it draws virtually no current, well, no current measurable current.

Ah yes, eBay yields the goodies once again. And this time.

All flashing at once, which is ohh no and ramping. I think that's the old patterns thing. Ohh it is yeah. Hmm.

All the connections seem good, it's just not doing anything. Well. It is actually getting slightly warm, but nothing really radical. And if I bridge these two connections here?

All the merits, just part of a soldering station.

Also notable that it looks a bit mashed down here because when I first opened it up this wire was right across here and it had been mashed during manufacture so.

Also, it's a big splash of solder across some pins here.

Although, having said that, when you let go of the button, it's not really going to do that, is it?

Am I right here? No, actually I'm talking crap. The fuse is actually in the live. This is good.

An S. 8.

An unexpected communication that did answer that question I had how did does it monitor that? How does it?

And 2nd Array primary of the two high voltage Transformers.

And also communication via 22 pins.

And and it when it drives this transistor it doesn't just drive the relay, but it also drives that red LED.

And another thing you could do, the black lead that goes out for the touch sensor. You could put a resistor, another resistor or another capacitor in series of that.

And any LEDs, and yes, there's an LED above and below, so you'd expect some LED activity. We'll tell you what.

And as it is the secretary it, I don't think it has a I don't think it covers the full sound wave. It's the lamp is never really going to reach full intensity, I don't think, not sure about that.

And current can flow through a MOSFET. Now direction. The issue is that diode.

And each processor is powered by its own voltage directly to from its own battery.

And here I was out by three decimal places. So sadly, this power bank will not actually run your top of the range Tesla for a year without charging.

And here's the odd thing. There is a pull down resistor to make sure these Mosfets stay off.

And I also to send a signal over to that to its switch input, to tell it to wake up and actually turn the sort of battery level indicator lights on. Let's bring in the schematic.

And I focus it to a more appropriate position.

And I think I'm going to try and depot this.

And I've found it. So let's see how easy this is to open without bursting, because will it be glued to shut? That would be annoying.

And if I plug in this little air tester here. We can test its output capacity from port.

And if I pop the cover off.

And if I take this out, because it was originally potted in with a sort of silicone rubber, where is it going to come out now? It is a fairly tight fit.

And if the voltage across this cell reaches the upper threshold, it could be just above 4.2 volts. This MOSFET will turn on and it will effectively shunt this resistor across that lithium cell.

And if there's current flowing through the circuit, say the trickle charge at the end of charge, it wouldn't deal with amps, it would only deal with typically less than 60 milliamps. But if.

And if you consider if you had a load connected to here supporting you had a lamp. Oh, that's very old fashioned.

And it also creates an absolutely minute trace level of ozone that helps freshen the air.

And it monitors the voltage across the cell of the 471 resistor and capacitor to provide filtering so it gets a nice stable reference voltage.

And it provides a thermal barrier. Because this little chip here does give off a bit of heat while it's charging, it acts as a variable resistor.

And it then goes to the circuitry, which is just gibberish. It's nonsensical before it goes out to the ion module and unfortunately.

And it's a very classic. It's got a.

And it's associated with resistor and this one for the timing which will change the sort of intensities.

And it's got the little tiny relay that they normally have. Let's get this out. If we can get it out, the whole hot comes out. That's pretty good.

And it's notable that it deviates from their specifications again.

And its application notes suggests that it could be used as part of push pull arrangement.

And maybe brighten the image up because it is just a bit.

And no continuity in that one. It's not doing anything right. Tell you what.

And now I'm gonna stick. This.

And one is sparking. You're probably not going to see that yet. Uh, you touch the other one and the other one sparks, right. Tell you what, I'm going to turn the light off. One moment, please.

And pins are two and three are for the crystal, which is probably 32.768 kilohertz.

And resume, here is the circuitry.

And so here's the bizarre thing. They've got the case, they.

And take this apart, because that's going to see. I can already see looking into it. I mean, let's take a closer look just through the shell.

And that can be quite a lot of heat if the charge voltage is high and the.

And that goes negative to light that led. It will also light that led, but that's.

And that is basically how to turn garbage.

And that is it. It's quite a good result, I'd say.

And that is it. So there we go. I do have another tool on order a faulty 1, which is good. And so once it arrives it's the 20 Volt tool.

And that is it. There is nothing more to say.

And that is more or less it, so I'm going to.

And that provides power to the chip. It's very low current. It's interesting to note that that.

And that their life is definitely live, because otherwise it may not work.

And that was fairly easy to open and I think you will agree, let's pop that. Well, let's not pop that out. Let's put some isopropyl alcohol in.

And that's between the two ports. So don't go plug in one AMP devices into each one, otherwise it will be sad.

And that's not bad. It's holding 5 volts at 1 amp as we go to 1.5 amp.

And that's not what's in this, though. And but it is along the same lines.

And that's what happens. The gate of the MOSFET is normally pulled to the 0 Volt rail with this fairly high value resistor.

And the circuit board in output, where is it? It's somewhere here. It's quite nice. It's got 2.

And the circuit board seems to have quite a few components on it, though it's got a very odd layout.

And the high number of beeps there meant that it was out of compliance because when you plug in a lab that you've programmed it for like this little one here.

And the joints have been reflowed. Some tests have been done.

And the little chip, the little module is ESP.

And the negative goes straight to the driver.

And the negative is connected to the end of the lithium cells via 2 Mosfets. This is a very common arrangement.

And the negative is that the other side?

And the other two are wired across it so that by swapping the polarity, it can actually light individualities. Technically speaking, that means if this one's positive.

And the solar cell also has its resistor 2K and an LED just to say I am charging. Well, there is light in the vicinity. It means nothing really because it's such a tiny solar panel.

And the switch here. This is a switch which links across.

And then it just goes in parallel to the speaker connectors, your output probes, your little socket and then all the lamp holders.

And then looking through a suitable magnifying device.

And then the other connector is just connected to the other ones directly. There's no high voltage structure in there all. Is it actually even connected to anything?

And then we've got the control circuitry here. One other thing worth worth noting is this.

And then, bizarrely, just one connection.

And there is the little switch contact here.

And there is what appears to be a reset circuitry circuit here, which is useful to know because this may well way of rebooting the pack which goes to pin 4.

And there's a 2 megohm resistor just designed to discharge any residual charge in this capacitor.

And there's a decoupling capacitor of roughly 100 nanofarad emerged in circuits that's not guaranteed across the two pins of microcontroller. And this is a classic pick 12 pinout.

And there's also this resistor here which limits the current and the feedback circuit and the little 2.2 nanofarad capacitor.

And there's definitely no ionization going on. Not unless you touch it, in which case it's you who will be ionised.

And there's one of these across each cell.

And there's the button that is signalling to the microcontroller, so you can click it to actually wake the unit up or go into the various LED modes.

And they've gone to the effort of soldering them onto the circuit board and the wires. They've got this circuit board made with all these useless components.

And this is the secondary. And in doing that it would start this, it would start oscillating.

And this resistor isn't really worth changing. This is the one that used to get the reference so it knows where the start of the sine wave is. Let me bring in the schematic.

And this thing is used for testing lamps. Let me demonstrate you turn the power on.

And to avoid epileptic things, I'll do it with the lights on, so off.

And try and roughly align that chip above that gap. So there's a bit of.

And uh, yeah, it's a nice enough case.

And uh. When it did that, it would step the voltage up and then charge this capacitor with respect to ground. But there is no direct ground connection until you push one of those buttons.

And um, yeah, perplexing. So perplexing. And.

And using it to probably buffering it up with this trip here. I would guess I'll double check with that and see if I can find any information on it.

And we'll stick it on a meter and we'll plug it in and we'll see if we get voltage across the output here. One moment, please.

And we're going to sort of the negative connection of the battery pack on 1st Curly here.

And we've basically a standard feedback that orange indicates one transformer, that's the little transformer.

And we've got the spot welded tab.

And well, it works.

And when it gets even lower, it will go below this, you know, voltage, and then it will just be the lowest one, and that will show you that it's time to recharge the battery pack.

And when it turns it on, it just brings the LEDs on and goes through its modes.

And when you turn on the light, it actually puts power out to actually power the LEDs directly, but it also.

And will probe about and see are we getting.

And you can just shove lamps in.

And you see the larger protection circuits are the balancing circuits. It's basically the same circuit, just repeated over and over again all the cells in.

And. Because I it it's the other way round from the picture I showed you the positive.

Anything else here, that is it. You could play around with these values. You could play around with that value.

Anyway, here is the reverse engineering of the unit. That is the back of the circuit board flip.

Are these little screw holes? See if we can pop the plugs. Oh, it's got a compass, by the way, just in case. Because, you know, eat your heart out. Google Maps.

Around that it's gonna restrict that a bit, but if the chip gets too hot it will self regulate.

As as does the power and then output goes to the LED's via that resistor. And here is the truth table of a very similar classic H bridge.

As well as China, they might allow such things, but uh, it's definitely.

At an example of this and why it may appear to keep charging but doesn't keep charging and I shall zoom down a bit more on this.

At one moment please.

Ate 2.

Average warm white OK, watch your eyes. The light is coming back.

B2B P/E KH but on the other chip, the slave chip, it's B2B7 ekht and that makes me think, well those didn't come up in a search so I'm guessing that those are.

Balancing circuits to actually control that it would with that lower currency a cap of.

Batteries are low, so I'm going to.

Be some sort of step up circuit if it was low voltage and it is a step up circuit for low voltage.

Because effectively, as soon as it reaches the full charge, it cuts power to the cells so that.

Because I've resolved these bars if I connected this across 3 volts.

Because technically speaking, when you apply a positive signal to activate this MOSFET and measure the voltage say across the first cell.

Because they look like they're detachable. Are they trim or are they part of the thing that holds it together?

Because ultimately in most applications it's treated as just one battery. SO1 thermistor would have done.

Below 3 volts, about say about 2.5 is the cut off point for the DW1. It uses this MOSFET package to switch the output off.

Better. Yeah, but that is it. It is a.

Big Clive - Gangnam Style

Blue, grey, orange, 68368 thousand ohms.

Buck regulator chip, there's an inductor, there's the output capacitor for the power supply, and what it's doing is it's measuring the voltage drop across this current shunt.

But anyway, there is.

But as well as being able to alternate between the two thermistors.

But at any time. You can plug in your.

But by basically controlling the two Mosfets, you basically block current flow in either direction.

But by turning this MOSFET off, it will block the discharge. That's why this one is marked as the discharge prevention MOSFET.

But either way, it's a solid 23 package. It's a 6 PIN package, but it only uses 3 pins.

But having said that, it's just, you know, it doesn't look a hugely expensive device. So the answer here is.

But I don't think it would really be compliant with American, European, British or any other regulations maybe in India.

But I'm getting the feeling that the the main brain of this unit which is a little there RF receiver board.

But interesting stuff. So that answers the question. I've looked at these circuits and I've always wondered.

But it could also potentially see a slight jitter on the analog digital converter through this, and it's possible that.

But it would start charging that capacitor up until this sidac.

But it's connected to neutral so it can tell when the side wave has gone.

But it's interesting, the data sheet shit. Well that's wrong. The data sheet for the T6 or 61A.

But it's the fact that the speaker terminals are not compliant. The probes are just ridiculous, but hilarious at the same time.

But pleasingly faken away actually quite enjoyed taking that apart.

But still probably worth experimenting with.

But that is another electronic high voltage eBay special deciphered.

But that is how it works. It does require a bit of intelligence on the charger side or that sneaky resistor which I think would work.

But that is it, a very simple circuit thanks to this chip.

But that is it, so if you need.

But that is it. It's an interesting little circuit and it does seem to work.

But that is it. They're not super duper expensive.

But that is it. Things worthy of note.

But that is more or less it. There's another possibility here. Did you see how it triggered when I touched the wire? You could, theoretically.

But that's good if it doesn't trigger too early in the sine wave, because that results in longer lamp life.

But the main processor here deals with the switching of the thermistors, it doesn't monitor them directly.

But the master one, as well as dealing with the communication backs and forwards, also deals with the two thermistors, which is odd because.

But then it stopped working completely and I've got the hobby here and if I plug it into the hobby.

But then it's only about 90 milliamps at 3.3 volts. It shouldn't be. Maybe I'm just imagining.

But then that would have broken their little accountant's heart, wouldn't it?

But there is a reset network.

But there we go. So.

But there's also this little transformer here that I speculated thinking initially it was 248 before.

But they've got the fuse on what appears to be the neutral.

But they've got the ionizer emitters, which are real ionizer emitters.

But this is it. The job is done. We have our LEDs, our particular exposure off and there you have.

But this is now going on here.

But this one here takes it to new levels of scamming Ness, to the point that they've been so intent on making a scam product that they've actually.

But we have the USB connector here. I shall just write UCSB. I also write XT here because that is the crystal.

But when you're tasked with the probe.

But you could put a resistor in line with this if you wanted extra safety.

But. Every single one will not there, well, they are. Every single one's different.

By opening them up, keeping in mind that to her they are kind of like.

By using A1K resistor in series that led of an opto isolator and it's got one of its pins of internal pull up just pulled straight to the Volt rail by another opto isolator so that each.

Circuitry and having taken out, I did try it and didn't really have much luck, so I think it's time.

Clusters of resistors. There's a chip which appears to be a.

Comes to the rest of the circuitry and there's this.

Coming apart, coming apart. Well, it's kind of come apart.

Composed of five 2500 Milliamp power 18650 cells.

Connections here for the battery, we've got the power the take off wires from the battery pack.

Contains all the processing power. Little Voltage regulation perhaps?

Current setting resistor down here. I really do wish they'd put a round pad here and one here that would let you put a standard through hole.

Custom programmed microcontrollers.

Dahood coming in. Then it's got two current limiting resistors, one in series with each of the cheap gallium phosphide LED's.

Deal with it, and the answer is with one processor reference to the common 0 Volt rail that's used by. Well, that's the common 0 for 20 volts and 40 Volt.

Depending on the this, the polarity is such it depends if this black wire here actually gets connected to live or not. Whichever one ends that track if you had a.

Devices into ferlatte power sources.

Dieded inside. Could be my imagination. That feels quite warm actually.

Disposed. Disposable.

Divided by I've used a 33 ohm resistor.

Do it Electro boom style. Let's see what it really is there.

Does slam them in parallel or just use one section? And I'll also analyze it to see what actually went wrong.

Don't immediately recognize BSL wait.

Double click puts out again. Let's take the screws out. That's nice. It doesn't just clip together or have the screws going to come out. Hold on, what are they?

Either a metal touchpad or.

Excuse me, I'm belching because of just a beer actually, but that's OK.

Feedback this is the primary. Primary.

Fibre emitters were connected directly to that leg and.

Filter circuit for the touch input and this capacitor here is between you and the mains. It's supposed to be 2 capacitors but it is 1 and it is a 3K V 470 picofarad capacitor.

Foam tape. That's an excellent move.

For a 2 Watt radio amplifier. And yet I find the S 8550 in a lot of inverter designs. It just seems to be one of those things that it's found an alternative use.

For the 24 version to see if it just just.

For the output pins and this is where it all gets hideous. The ID is fairly straightforward, it controls a MOSFET that just switches 100 ohm resistor. I'm guessing maybe it just.

From the battery and it's just monitoring one of the battery packs and we have the minus.

Gas burner stove or something like that.

Generic Luxian style 1 Watt or three Watt LEDs, but it's a shame that it's not an aluminum core PCB because.

Give me one moment. I shall grab schematic for this. Not that it's a terribly exciting schematic. Well, it is, say, an exciting schematic in a way.

Gives it a staggering capacity of 32 megawatts. That's fantastic because if we divide that by the biggest battery available in a Tesla vehicle.

God that it didn't take long to describe. It took a long time to reverse engineer. Oh, did it take a long time. I also drew this vertically. Maybe this was a bad idea.

Half a Watt, probably, and that's quite a lot just for the beer LED. It does a fairly large copper tracks in this, but it's not the same as an on an aluminum substrate PCB, however.

Has just one pin connected. It's marked NTC. It's a whole lot more than that.

He's saying waves when it goes from one priority to the other and it passes the 0 Volt line. Two things happen there.

Heat flow, although the heat shrink doesn't really help that much.

Here is my little battery pack and now.

Here is the schematic. I shall zoom down just a tiny bit more just to make that nice and big.

Here it's like hmm.

Here. Um.

Here's a little UK complaint adapter with a fuse. I'll plug this non polarized plug in and this is a device with a nice stitched readout and it beeps and it was described as.

Here's the activate the secretary. It's two LED's. They could have. They've missed a trick here. They could have used one resistor and put 2 LEDs in series.

Here's the. Power Supply Circuit Board, it's got the.

Hmm. B3A.

Hmm. Ohh George Michael. They're a careless whisker sticking out.

Holding this shot. This is so scummy. It's unbelievable. It's like it's good because it's so scummy.

How devious O I'd like to thank Adi.

However, if you. Double click this.

I can show you the close up picture of this site and I'll zoom down on this.

I could have drawn this bigger, but I didn't. It's another high corn chip as far as I can see. What's this one called? This one was called.

I didn't realise how battery technology had advanced and it turns out that this power bank has a capacity of no less than 9.

I didn't really make that connection at first. This was a hand machine, this screwdriver.

I don't know if it just alternates between the two thermistors and then the.

I don't know if it's going to be a capacitive dropper or it's going to be just looking for a screwdriver here.

I shall focus on that. I shall zoom in it.

I shall just Hotwire this with five volts so I cannot operate on it.

I shall unplug because there's little plugs here.

I suppose it's quite useful. It means they don't have to look up if you can basically calibrate it for that and then just stuff lamps in. But here the.

I suppose you could find a path back through the transistor.

I suppose, and this is just a theory, this is just a theory because this is connected directly to the batteries.

I think the crosshead screws. It's not doing it with that. Hold on, where's my other driver? It's hidden somewhere here. Hold on. There it is. Slight avalanche of stuff in the side.

I think they work on the basis that use common sense and if you get a shock you get a shock and if you die, you die and they're just going to have to employ somebody else.

I think we go straight to the notepad now. One moment please.

I thought it was going to be something fancy. It's really not. This is horizontal. Let's zoom up.

I wonder if that's why they've been partly brought out to these pins, because that will let you do a forced reset.

I'll cut straight to the chase here. So zooming this a little bit, maybe not too much, and for those of you with low patience, what I'll say is this.

I'll have to take out the circuit board to see what that is. We've got a side act, a diode, coupler, resistors and a capacitor rated about 680 nanofarad. I think that is.

I'll just draw this in ugly way. So there's a button.

I'm going to reflow these soda joints.

I'm going to see if I can open this and we'll see what's inside. One moment please.

I'm going to tag some wires across that.

I'm going to, I'm going to fold these back the way I think. What's the best way to do this? Yeah, that's I've got to fold those back out the way like that.

I'm I have a feeling that something here has failed. This little receiver module has actually.

I'm not seeing an awful lot going on here.

I'm not sure how you're supposed to use this in this configuration. I would guess that maybe the battery pack if it was intelligent and it was applying the charge voltage to these pads here.

I've divided this into two sections. This is almost.

I've got the cable coming in, the neutral has just popped off.

I've got this circuit board here, but I can show you a close up picture of it.

I've had this open already, I've just had to see what was inside it.

I've just pushed the button. Oh, here we go, here we go.

If that's used, but in this case it's not, this chip may not even have these features. It will possibly be just a cheap, simpler 1.

If the track was on, it will turn off because there's no current flowing through it and it's a latching device, so it turns off at that point.

If the two inputs are low, the outputs go high impedance because this is designed for controlling things like motors and it will let us see a motor freewheel.

If you push the other button, it also enables it, but this time because this is the call that's referenced to the 0 Volt rail.

If you see a case with this logo on it, and it's the generic key power saver insect repelling ionizer case, then there's a good chance that it's going to be fake.

If you turned this MOSFET off, even though it was off, current could still flow through that diode.

If you wanted to change it, you can change the value of this resistor, which is 101.2 K at the moment, 1/2 and two zeros. That's kind of. It's mounted upside down.

If you wanted to force a reset on the processor, supposing the battery packet locked up, you would just bridge over this capacitor with a pair of tweezers.

If you're actually pushing the lamps in, this may be live, or it may be neutral.

In China, in factories, I've seen videos showing the little.

In fact, I'll just stick that on the cells right like that.

In the beginning of the evening, it's going to keep you well, it's going to run into the next day.

Interesting. Am I going to put in a claimancy? I am outraged. I want my money back because it's not 9,000,000 milliamp hour.

Is also using these pins to actually communicate. I'll just. I'll use tweets as a pointer. Maybe the.

Is available online. You can find that in Google.

Is dad so?

Is here the output positive, so I'm going to just flow this connector on here.

Is it so theoretically now when I plug in my USB charge lead?

Is labeled 0 Volt here. That's because all the circuitry's reference to live. That's for two reasons.

Is partly to protect the cells underneath.

Is that 470? Let me just grab that. Yes it is. I've double checked 47, one, 474, seven and one, zero and the triac, which is a MAC97A6.

Is the myth busted on the TPP 4056?

Is the negative to negative because that does defeat the protection.

Is the solar panel actually connect? I think it is because the LED lights up that's, you know, a sure sign that solar panel is connected.

Is there something I've missed here or is it glued in or something?

It brings the little red led on and the relay but everything is dead. The green LED, but presume it's green is controlled from this when it when it boots up.

It can also enable this, which has a 750K resistor.

It does every couple of beeps and it shows you it's 1.75 watts. If you press the button briefly it shows the mains voltage which is currently 246 volts. Not sure how accurate that is.

It does help to have a screw. That's nice. I don't know why they added compass. I suppose it's because you know when you.

It has a 10K resistor pulling it to the 0 Volt rail live to keep it turned off.

It has a little decoupling circuit for its power supply. It's 10 ohms and I measured this in circuit, which means nothing really. You can't really measure capacitors easily in the circuit.

It has brightened up. Quirky.

It is reassuring that some power is being drawn.

It is showing its charging with a red LED and when it's charged that should go blue.

It is stuck to the battery. Hold on.

It kind of suggests that you can use this power bank to power.

It leads with another black wire community and the two high voltage connectors. The listing did show what was inside, which is good.

It measured about 5 microfarad, so let's just guess it's 4.7 microfarad with tolerance.

It produces a cloud of fog when you inhale on it and.

It shows a power of 7 watts. There is something active in there.

It then completes the circuit through for this the train. The feedback circuit can then actually find a path through the primary. Let's call this primary because that's what it is.

It too. Hold on, what was that?

It turns out that actual capacity equivalent for 9 milliamp power Power bank would be 32 kilowatt hours. So it's actually a third of the capacity of the top of the range.

It was a valid suggestion.

It was helped greatly by the complete lack of components inside because it is just a circuit board with two strips.

It will depend. On the base, it doesn't matter. On parallel it will.

It would be dumping not a current through that switch at the time, and it could actually start finding a pass back through a transistor.

It would be nice if you could unplug it and it would store the last setting and non volatile memory. That does not happen sadly, it just instantly forgets the pattern it had. So if I plug these in.

It's a natural outdoor element. What should happens when I put this on the live pin though, and I touch the carbon bristles here.

It's a treat, especial as I've would say it is something very special indeed, so I'll get straight to the point here. I'll plug this in.

It's also got a solar panel to help with the charging.

It's an interesting circuit, but as I say.

It's another mystery high voltage item from eBay, and as often with these devices, there's just no information I initially thought it was going to be.

It's got fruity flavours and when you're finished with it, a lot of people just throw it in the ground because that's the sort of thing that you used to do with their previous version of this.

It's got the incoming supply. I can see very direct far down there.

It's I've been told it's a drill.

It's in the vicinity of the voltage regulator each time.

It's it's not gonna brighten up. One moment, please.

It's only about 50 milliamps, so that should run for about, oh, a day.

It's optional. It's up to you, but I just these modules are very, very cheap. It's more expensive buying one than it is buying 10. Ultimately, there's very little price difference.

It's output is rated 1 amp per well, either 2 amps total or 1 amp per port. Let's put that to the test, shall we?

It's quite a versatile system. These lights, incidentally, came from Asda.

It's rated internal current limiting for charging lithium cell is 700 milliamps and I got about 600 milliamps or so, so that tallies up with that.

It's really ESP 8/2.

It's the one that will spark when you see it like this, it's very very simple.

It's very nice, very chunky and heavy.

Just all flashing horrible, alternating backwards and forwards.

Just by holding that button down. For oodles of time. So let's say I hold it down for a good length of time, but I would have expected to see LED's flashing and blinking.

Just this one. It wouldn't have been enough voltage to make this one light up. It wouldn't exceed the Zener diode voltage.

Just to act as extra insulation between you and that.

Keep in mind as soon as you're connected. The other connection that is very hot, that is a plated through hole.

Kilohertz. Because it's a very common timing crystal, the two outputs go to the H bridge.

L 008 B 3A battery balancing 3A I'm not really sure.

LED quick test light box voltage power tester for E27B22 E 14 lamp bulb with buzzer. It does have a buzzer. You can hear the buzzer going beep.

LED's with that suitable resistor in line. I'm repeating saying that because if you don't have it in line it would nuclear LED's.

Let me just actually tell you if that's a serial memory trip or not by taming this back for a start.

Let me just grab this is their secondary supply. I don't think there is. It's just going to be 5 volts a lot.

Let me show you this schematic. It's not that exciting. It's a very simple circuit.

Let me take a look at this again. This is the other side. Anything special?

Let's bridge the little switch. Well, let's actually, you know, let's force a complete Nutter reset.

Let's get the circuit board out and I'll put this battery in test and see what the capacity is. I have a feeling it's going to fall short of nine million million power. Also weigh this bitter metal.

Let's open it up. It needs a California warning sticker.

Let's open it up. So there's a single screw at the bottom.

Let's take a look at one of the many touch switch controllers on eBay. And to be honest, I don't recommend buying them from eBay because, well, there are no standards on eBay. You get random stuff.

Let's take a look at the ALDI Ferax dual voltage 20 Volt 40 Volt lithium Power Pack for power tools and this.

Like full 24 hour day on a full charge of this, which means that if you charged it.

Live if you have one of these and it's not working very well, check that the polarity of your wiring is correct.

Logical, because they do tend to display a bar graph and that's how they've done it.

Loosen up these carbon fiber emitters, which are real carbon fiber emitters with real wires connected to a real ionizer like module. So they've gone to that extent. I thought maybe.

Lots more heat dissipation when you run them in the higher voltage.

Lots of sparking from where? Actually holding these on? Am I going to get a shock at some point? Probably.

M25QO8A for the memory each device.

M4558D opamp but this is not a normal configuration just to try the pin scale like this. I have drawn the circuit diagram out.

Made anyway if you want to play safe.

Made so much worse that as part of their elaborate scam to make things look connected, they have actually connected.

Make sure everything is safe and away from anything, and then I'm going to plug this in, making sure double checking everything's clear. Plug it in.

Mama Papa type lamp shops where someone's just started up their own company.

Maybe a safer option. It's probably worth experimenting with that.

Maybe they've just hot melt glue these wires and filled it with resin, because that is a common enough thing. Let's say I get this out of the way.

Measure the power and if it is within the rated power range it will make a double beep.

Medium high off, low, medium high. I'm not sure that is full brightness, but.

Metal case light fitting that isn't grounded. It can't be grounded. It needs to use it as the antenna to pick the signal up.

Million milliamp hour and to put that into perspective.

Next thing, let's get the iron module out. This is going to have to crack out here.

Nine million million power cell, the listing shows.

No it's not. It is not glued shut. This is good. It is at the other end. It's got hot melt glue, string relief on the wires.

Not great. Suggests that maybe was a slight issue with the control circuitry module, because that is a perfectly acceptable voltage.

Not really. There's other regulator. I think we'll just cut straight to the schematic.

Not sure that is.

Not that that's really going to stop operating.

Not the probes. I mean the probes are it. It doesn't matter. You can put your fingers in these because you can poke your fingers in lamp holders anyway.

Nothing is happening on here. We'll tell you what.

Noting that because it's not polarized.

Now we've got that out of the way, let's.

Oddly, this one comes with a California proposition 65 warning on it.

Of a feeling and what's inside because someone reminded me that these exist. Let's just try. Let's try and get this potty on, let's say.

Oh my God. Continuity from the live pin directly to these conductive carbon bristles. And it's like, what?

Oh, that is so tight. Oh, that's just terrible, right? Tell you what, I'm going to turn it off for a start.

Oh, that'll do.

Oh, we're actually getting bored. That's interesting to know.

Ohh is it stuck to the battery?

Ohh sure to detect would it detect the upper voltage because there will not be a can sync using this.

Ohh, the screws are all dropping out everywhere. That's quite good.

Ohh.

Ohh.

Ohh. Maybe they're not little plugs. They may just be little circuit board headers. Do these not unplug? I don't think they do. Maybe they do. Hold on.

Ohh. Things are popping off.

Ohh. Yeah, that's true. Into pieces.

OK, then you just popped off. That's OK. I think it came from down there. Uh, but live is looks as though it's going out via the shunt here, let's zoom down this.

OK.

On each of those components. There's one and there's one.

On this capacitor, until the SIDAC operates. Now there is a path because you're holding that button and basically selecting that coil.

One moment please.

Oop is it even? It does loose connect to that 21218.

Or if it is a switch mode, will it be the classic capacitor? Will there be a bulging capacitor inside? We'll find out once I've opened it.

Or it might have been some transient finding its way through the power supply, although it does look isolated.

Or this capacitor appeared tweezers, but keeping in mind that is actually on top of the circuit board.

Or zebra if you prefer.

Other than just to casually slip in, just how hellish that was to reverse engineer, but very interesting nonetheless.

Other than that, the other things worth of note are the four LEDs are multiplexed.

Other than that, uh, quite a fun thing to take to bits.

Our new press that button and it pulls it to the 0 Volt rail. It turns on the well, it makes the powerbank up and it also turns on the light if you double click it or long press it.

Out of feeling. It may be treating it as two separate batteries, but the opto isolators were.

Past the zero crossing point, that's when it changes priority and is effectively at the start of each half.

Per factor .3 typical 8 milliamps.

Physically. Well in this case of this for the feedback you have to physically.

Pins are almost compliant. That earth pin is just normal pin size. It should actually be a bit bigger, but it still goes into a circle OK.

Plug it and let's put it to the first really annoying. Well, let's do a really annoying Blinky right? We'll do that.

Plug it in. It is kind of remembering that, but it will forget reset to zero if it's left unplugged for a length of time.

Pop the solder down on right now and I shall whip that transistor out and we'll see what that little transistor is in there. Is this capacitor discharge?

Potentially go quite high and then the DW one will cut off its protects against overcurrent as well. It's a very versatile arrangement. This module is perfect for this.

Potted the circuit board. They could have bought a potted module from the many specialists in China who sell them.

Probably spent as much making the scam product as they could make in the real one.

Probably written it 21 volts. I have written it. As long as it doesn't go much above that, even with a slight selling balance, you're not going to get anything dramatically overcharging.

Processor in the tool itself. The power tool actually detects those two levels and all it's looking for is 1 because this will form potential divider the 10K thermistor.

Processors it's own opto isolator for controlling the opto isolator that led and also receiving the data back through the phototransistor.

Pulled him off briefly just to check the status of the button, but this is being used differently.

Put a metal pad in the back of a plastic housing and then touch the front of it. It might actually detect the capacitance through the plastic onto your fingers.

Put the other bit down here. I'm going to leave a little gap underneath.

Quick excited to see this radical cell. Obviously it's not 9,000,000 milliamp power. That is just ridiculous.

Quite handy in the right environment.

Quite strange, but I guess ultimately there must be a proven circuit, so it must be OK.

Right, lot of screws. Maybe I should have taken some out for and or even pause, but I didn't love the construction gives me.

Right.

Right. So that is our cell.

Right. The latest coming back. Watch your eyes. It's time to see the schematic.

Roughly. There ohh look, I've stuck the chip ray over the thermal tape that.

Run. Hold on, let's see if I can get a good connection here. Maybe it's not connected to anything in there.

Sadly it's a feel I'm getting 3.3 volts to the little module here.

Safely, and then we'll measure some voltages on here. One moment, please, while I set that up.

Screwdriver knowledge. Use a different one. Let's use this screwdriver.

Sends data through that, not sure.

Separation of our control signal feedback with these wires, or it may.

Sleep the whole lot up and that is theoretically going to be it.

Slowly ramping up slightly pointless old crossfading barbs and furs, I'd guess.

So each processor has a 5 Volt regulator and EFF 50B that connects to the.

So for controlling the charge of this, I'm going to use a very standard module from eBay called a TPP 4056 module, allowing me to show you a much larger image of this.

So here is a little parameter. It's Aurora Dang parameter. L zoom down this so you can see.

So here's the power supply. Note that live.

So here's what I'm going to do. I'm going to soda the batch across these two terminals. I'm going to solder the output to the LEDs across the two outer terminals.

So I could show you this is surface mount in the back. It's got some physical components in the front. One moment please. I'm just going to get the this photographed and then we can continue.

So I have now flowed soders onto those connections.

So I shall zoom down in this.

So I'm getting the 3.3 Volt to the processor. Everything's there that should be making it work.

So I've got this just flush with the end so that I can still plug the USB lead in and I'm going to use a hot air gun.

So if I zoom down this. This is the USB connector. Come in the side. It's interesting to note that a lot of the text is up this way, except the outputs are up the other way. That's just an oddity.

So inside is the little circuit Board I'll put up this way.

So inside we've got a little current shunt and what looks probably like an opamp. Going to guess that's an opamp or a dedicated current monitoring device. Let me just see if there's a number on it.

So it scans looking for those voltages. It also interrogates the other processor.

So it's going to disintegrate into pieces, yes, it is probably going to disintegrate into pieces.

So it's sparking the left hand side.

So let me let me focus in a more sensible height. I shall bring them that looks like a more sensible height.

So let you take a picture of that if you want to play along here, and then I shall show you the other side of the circuit board.

So let's get the circuit board out and take a look. So I shall zoom down for this just so you can actually see.

So let's say untangle the leads first start. Big, long lives. Their huge leads.

So let's start with the battery monitoring, which is super complex and this is going to be vertical because it just made sense to draw it vertically.

So look at this. We have a PNP transistor.

So looking inside this little box. Spanja.

So my guess here is an electrostatic discharge or just a natural failure of this. It's a shame it's wiped out a product and it's it means you can't really just replace component to repair it.

So nine eyes are normally steps of voltage up inside to a higher voltage at low current, and char puts electrostatic charge near that does two things. It helps precipitate dust out of there.

So now I'm going to start off by soldering on the output connector.

So that answers that question. Quite an interesting technique.

So that is it. Interesting circuit uses clever but slightly shady. I mean whams if you open this switch just as it sparks.

So the chip knows where to get its timing from in the sine wave. It has a resistor I value 1.5 megohm. 2 resistors would be nicer and serious as to the voltage rating.

So the final bit of them stormed is this horrible little voltage level indicator. This is your battery monitor.

So the positive is connected directly to the end of the two lithium cells here.

So the power supply is that resistor, that diode charging that capacitor with the Zener diode or Zener diode across it if you prefer to shunt the voltage level to about 6.8 volts. I measured 7 volts.

So there's not much else to say about it. There are other versions.

So this. Resistor here is part of the power supply.

So to make this circuitry easier to follow our divided into 2 pages, let's zoom down this.

So what actually happens when you put the LEDs across, if I was there?

So what I'm going to start by doing is flowing some soda onto all four of these terminals on the circuit board.

So when the processor wants to check the voltage of the first cell.

So when you join these cells in parallel and you could just use a single cell if you wish, or you could make a stack of them in parallel like this.

So when you push that button, current flows and it basically starts the circuit oscillating. Charge the voltage up.

So when you're charging it, the voltage will gradually rise and it's filtered via A3 and 13 resistor and a 100 nanofarad capacitor. You can use various values, but 100 nanofarad is very common.

Socket and it's completely dead, he said. Initially it went very flaky and intermittent and then it would it. Also, he said that there was an issue with it leaking current to LED lights.

Some current will flow through this pull down resistor that's normally used to keep that MOSFET turned off, and it also contributes to the analog to digital converter voltage reading.

Some of them do fake the solar panels. This is not going to easily.

Sometimes it will just pop apart, but most of the time it does kind of stay stuck together because it kind of it was soft and sticky at that point.

Spelt with a Z. All right, there's a Wi-Fi module.

Strange, but they've got diode 2 resistors to LED's. That is the act of the circuitry.

Sudden appearance of snips, chopping wires to disconnect the circuit. That's what you do.

Suitably high voltage. OK. So you touched agreement on.

Supplied pre programmed so the processor has.

Take it apart. So I'm seeing these little dimples here. I'm also seeing these little covers at the side. Let's say I get this spudger into the covers at the side.

Tesla Battery, which kind of means that that's just like is that 27 million million per power bank you could make out of Tesla?

That can take this battery but operates at 20 volts and I've been told that.

That does kind of allude that something has gone horribly wrong. Tell you what.

That drew a blank. That's not a surprise.

That emitter and does it connect to her and that one?

That goes to a diode for half wave rectification and then to this smoothing capacitor which is about 47 microfarad at.

That I just ended up buying. No particular reason for buying this one.

That is perplexing. So there we have it. If you see cases like this, I hope this isn't someone's actual logo they've stolen as well, because that would be a shame.

That make it kind of special and that, as I say, might be OK in China and India, but it's not really too acceptable anywhere else.

That may be a clue.

That means the next thing I want to do is actually cover off that and see what's underneath and see if there's anything obvious under there. One moment, please.

That would all go. I've got to calculate that now. One moment, please.

That's all the crystals there for. Is that accurate timing of the? It may possibly run the actual pattern as well, but also.

That's it. Uh, interesting module. Is there anything else I can really say about this? Yes, there is. I shall.

That's not even going to fit in. What about this one? This is going well.

That's strange anyway. Then to the automaker controller, and over here there is a little buck regulator based on a.

That's the perceived value of how much energy you're going to get if you recharge it repeatedly over its cycle over X 1000 cycles.

That's them there, and they're in parallel, going straight to the output here.

That's why I've invalidated my warranty on the certificate of this product has passed the test. Excellent. It's not passed my test. I mean, it works.

The black connection here which is live.

The black wire going in is connected to.

The CAP is off removing some of the ground tracks that process.

The cells are connected with the extreme negative end to this pad, the extreme positive end to this pad, and then the center connection to this pad.

The current could flow through this diode, but as long as the two Mosfets are on it will flow in the circuit however.

The current is flowing from the higher voltage one to the lower voltage 1.

The current is flowing through that cell has reached its full voltage, this MOSFET turns on and it will just basically.

The current is going to be roughly 1.5 volts being dropped and a freshly charged battery.

The final bit of the puzzle. Oh, let's talk about that reset there, right? OK.

The fuse is in the neutral. I suppose it's better that that. It doesn't help if you poke the probe onto a grounded metalwork, does it?

The hot air gun is part of a yahuah 8786D. It's quite.

The image so that correlates to what's down below.

The latest back. I'll unplug these.

The LED's are lighting nicely, thank you very much. So I'm going to put this bit of heat shrink across now.

The light is back and were read to continue. For reference, at three volts the current consumption was just 300 milliamps. At 1.5 volts it was 200 milliamps and the spark was notably slower.

The lights are off, so this is the yellow circuit.

The little resonate at the sodas, they're looking very cool, but that's only because it's a reflective surface and they're as presumably a serial memory chip look.

The live in this instance.

The main reason for such a a crystal it like that is for accurate timing for the automatic switch on switch off mode.

The negative is actually going out, so to complete the circuit you actually have to.

The next bit of the circuitry is kind of interesting.

The numbers in the chip are FMD.

The one you don't want to shout out. When you're putting the battery on.

The only bits needed are the two resistors, here the. I mean they could have saved our resistor. Maybe they just want more components, make more realer.

The other bit of the circuitry involves mystery chip.

The other part of the circuitry is for monitoring the voltage across the cells.

The other things that are interesting to note here are the simple solar charger is just going via a diode with our LED and resistor.

The other tool I made a mistake in the circuit diagram, the other one.

The output current is rated at 1 amp and not there 2 amp and I was squeezing it quite hard and I got up to 1.5 amps. So it's A1 amp power bank.

The outputs of 123456 and seven go to the control pins of the H bridge driver.

The positive goes through a polarity protection diode which also drops the voltage down slightly, which will have benefits for dissipation from that resistor.

The positive goes to pin nine of the processor. This could be a clue. The negative goes to PIN 7.

The power bank trip so as the USB in with that little decoupling capacitor and the USB out with its little capacitor.

The power supply. This looks like the output capacitor and it's not bulgy, but tell you what I'm going to do.

The red is connected to two of the meters, the black is connected to other.

The relay says 5 Volt DC, so it's being powered directly from this but.

The reverse engineering is complete. Let's zoom develop in this and take a look at the circuitry. So this is the through hole side of the circuit board I've flip.

The schematic. Right.

The series and all these circuits just sat across those cells in series.

The solar panel charges that directly via an ordinary silicon diode.

The subject of this video is very small, so we'll just cut straight to the chase and we'll go into the expanded image. One moment please.

The supply of current through the transformer.

The the fully charged cell from being pushed too far.

The tool and I made a mess of a previous video. Where is that circuit board?

The transistor is out as being identified it is.

The waveform. The zero crossing point of.

Then goes the first probe. In goes the second probe.

Then it reveals.

Then the green circuit. It's sparking the right hand side. What happens if I connect both at once?

Then you need not turn it off. For this, you need the special probes that come with it.

There are two LEDs, red and green, with a 1K resistor each. There's a couple of decoupling capacitors just for stability of operation and then.

There are two positions for resistors.

There is a little. Let me grab the drawing again.

There is a path.

There is an FM 9610 power bank chip.

There is that attitude towards labour in China. It's very odd. Doesn't happen here. Maybe they're a bit too soft here. Maybe we need more test equipment like this.

There is. Where is it?

There was a .1 Volt difference. I put a clamp meter over and then dad the wire on and there's 500 milliamps flowing between them and once a.

There. And if you just took this connection directly to the 0 Volt rail, that would form a feedback oscillator where this is the feedback winding.

There's no fancy pull downs in these Mosfets because it's less critical. The process will go to 0 Volt and output, which turn them off and it will go to +5 volts to turn them on.

There's only one connection. They've mixed this up here. They've actually got because the way they've wired it, they've got live going here and you're going here.

They don't want to come out. OK, tell you what, is it worth taking?

They lasered this off, but they didn't laser it deep enough.

They might even trip protection as it is.

They touch input has the pad. It's got the 470 picofarad. The data sheet shows two 1000 picofarad or one nanofarad capacitors in series at rated one kilovolts each. They've used.

They're part of the thing that holds it together.

Things are doubling up, so I well, I'll show you going first.

Things worth mentioning in the earlier part of the video, I said it has to be used on the sort of.

This 2K resistor here is used to sense the voltage between the negative connection which is this end of the Mosfets and this end of the Mosfets and.

This calls for the magic isopropyl alcohol and not petrol as someone suggested, but they're equally as flammable substantial amount.

This capacitor here is part of a.

This is a I think it's 20 pin. Hold on, let me look at the bigger drawing. That would make sense because then it can count the pins better. One of around 20 pin, yeah it's a 20 pin chip.

This is so strange, I'm not sure why they've done it. You could feel free to chime in with ideas about this.

This is where it just bursts into flames anyway.

This little thing has fallen off. That's good. I didn't like it anyway.

This off, there's no LCD display so don't have a zebra strip to worry about.

This one's going to reach. It should show its charging with the red LED.

This requires the use of a.

Though projector is, well, entirely your choice, you can get sets of connectors on eBay with PWM precribed with tails ready for use. I tend to.

To allow it to actually do various effects with the LEDs and weight that others as well, it uses an extra bit of circuitry. That's that side done. Let's go to the other side.

To heat this and melt it on.

To tally up with the front of the circuit board here and it breaks into 3 distinct sections.

Torture over the touch? Wrong. Low.

Transistor to switch a relay, little clicky button.

Triac is driven via this 47 nanofarad capacitor, a 470 ohm resistor.

Two volts, which wouldn't be good for our batter like that. The minimum voltage should be about 15 ish volts.

Uh, but you can change the value. There's app data sheet for the TP 4056 that shows the resistor values in the current.

Uh, the unity sent me here is a Wi-Fi.

Um, anything else worth mentioning about this? Nothing at all.

Um, but so make sure that you tape over that and also support them together. Make sure that you don't put too much pressure on little tabs in, because these are little pouch cells and they've.

Um, but such a shame that they didn't just put a bigger sell in here because uh.

Um, I wonder if there's another supply. I wonder what there really is right now. I'm going to plug this again.

Um, if I just, uh, do some computations here, right 9,000,000.

Um, on the soccer board itself. Good, generous space from the high voltage. It's doing kind of double duty here.

Um, or they might have just scaled it up into the sound wave to make it so that it doesn't go too dim. That's possible as well.

Um, SM 7035 P.

Um, the relay.

Um, the switch simply pulls PIN 4 down to the 0 Volt rail.

Um, things worthy of note in here.

Um, to show that, well, there's a light.

Um, we go up to 1 amp.

Um. And see if I can get any life out of this.

Um. So.

Um. That's more or less it. They're the two main things you could experiment with this capacitor value here and this.

Um. The.

Um. Until they're all equal. I don't know if they'd ever really reach the point that this thing would cut off at that point. Then the other option, this would be much easier.

Ungrounded metaphor inviolate. Don't remove the ground if there's one on it. If that's the case, it's kind of designed for double insulated lights with that metal housing.

Unplug it. Leave it for a few seconds.

Use this connector. I've just used them for a very long time so I've stuck with them.

Use with caution of buying from eBay, that's one where that thing is suggested. They're putting a bit of foil behind the plastic case and detecting capacity through that would actually be.

Using two lanes, two of them go to the 0 Volt rail.

Very quickly. Is it going to do it? Is it, is it going to perform?

Very strange. There is also A1 nanofarad capacitor across the gate of each just for presumably stability.

We all know that eBay is notorious for facilitating the sale of scam products.

We have our probes, said Clive, handling them gingerly. Notice not shrouded tips, not finger guards or anything. Turn the power on.

We have the plus.

We're getting 3.3 volts. That's not so great.

We're getting 5 volts. So that's.

We're in advance that because this is sparking us him down a bit, I'll probably have to turn the light off. I don't even know if it'll show with the light off.

We've got a side ACK going to the negative, but notice the air.

We've got the. Control section which monitors the voltage across two cells.

We've got these big fat resistors and a MOSFET to switch them. The sensing circuit to detect when overcharging is about to occur.

Well this has failed. It can't be repaired. That's annoying. I hate things I can't repair. But there we go. It happens from time to time.

Well, as e-mail to on shrink it down may appear to be a better description.

Well, I wish everything was as easy to depot as that.

Well, it is. It's connected there to.

Well, it might not be. Oh, no, I've got continue to there.

Well, just as it. Well, it just as it sparks and also.

Well, that is odd. It's using clever things into my know what happens, and they use clever tricks. It makes it much more complicated to reverse engineer because.

Well, this is going to be such a treat because.

Well, this, this bit of trims come off. That's a start.

What is it doing to balance the cells? And it turns out it's basically just dobbing a resistor across the cell when it reaches the required voltage and just trickling the current past it.

What's that guy game that they gotta catch em all? Poke him on it? It's got that 2 tone color tip.

What's this? They're all ramping up and down. Exciting and very, very unpleasant. Uh-huh. And then back hopefully to static and because of the way these LEDs are driven.

When is this coming out? What bits are falling off everywhere?

When it reached say, it might detect.

When you actually try reverse engineer circuit board, it is not. It was quite hard to draw this schematic out. It took a few efforts to get it in a sensible style.

When you look at the back. It's got some very odd.

When you're away camping somewhere, it's quite handy to just know where north is.

Wherever I put that circuit board, I had it and now it's gone.

Which makes it quite interesting.

Which the ports will be worn in parallel so as I wind up.

Which used to be owned by Walmart. Not so I'm not sure if these will be common in America as well. It's their multicolour lights, which happen to be blue, purple and pink, which are very attractive.

Which will instantly, theoretically I'll just put tons in, should theoretically just release that hot melt glue.

With electric ignition, with just a couple of air double ears to run it both, that might be the perfect module for the job.

Yeah, kind of, yeah. It's done it right. I'm going to take a picture of the circuit board and Michael, explore the circuitry. One moment, please.

Yeah, the generic Christmassy light type one. Um.

Yes, it is. And we'll try and get the coating off that and we'll just see what it is just for interest. One moment please.

You could use the GPS in your phone and charge from this massively high power capacity power bank or incidentally.

You find out that.

You want to remove the battery from these devices.

You'll find with the heat shrink, if you heat it up and then pinch it while it's still hot, it will kind of fuse together and that can actually provide a bit of air extra stream relief.

1st Shift A and this will be charged up. I shall unplug the thing.

3.3 volts here because it is dry about 90 milliamps, and don't know where that's going.

3.6 * 2 Seven .2 and it will say deduct the 1st 3.6 so this is also 3.6 and it basically scans along and as soon as one of them reaches say for instance it's charging 4.2 volts.

10K. What that means is that typically at room temperature there are about 10,000 ohms resistance.

15 to 21 Volt basically the positive end of the battery via 100 ohm resistor which is diffused properly and it's a couple of decoupling capacitors. Now it supplies the processor.

16 Volt and there's also a Zener or Zener diode on the other side of the circuit board that caps the voltage to around about 6.8 volts.

32 points out that is correct because that's a nice binary divide division of 1 Hertz, which is what it will be using as a time based internally for its timer.

66 ex.

120 Volt or 240 volts. On arrival it actually has an embossed that it says output 12 KV input 1.5 to 3 volts. And to be fair it does have red and black leads, but it also has these green and yellow.

550 and that is described as a PNP 25 Volt 1.5 amp, the gain of roughly 200.